This week, European clothing and textile organizations issued an appeal to curb the rise of ultrafast fashion, driven by the influx of cheap, low-quality garments from outside Europe. Warning of its negative consequences—such as mounting waste and growing challenges for European producers—they called for stronger oversight of digital platforms, reform of the EU Customs Code, and an end to duty exemptions for parcels valued under €150.
Representatives of the Polish apparel industry stress that Chinese e-commerce platforms are exploiting tax loopholes and expanding unchecked across Poland and the EU. Low-value parcels are rarely inspected and are exempt from customs duties, making Chinese products much cheaper. According to the European Commission, 4.6 billion parcels worth under €150 entered the EU in 2023, compared with 2.3 billion in 2022 and 1.4 billion in 2021. Last year, such shipments accounted for 5% of all clothing sales in the EU, and 20% of online sales.
The growing popularity of ultrafast fashion prompted industry leaders to address EU policymakers during the Première Vision trade fair. One signatory is Poland’s Association of Employers of the Clothing and Textile Industry (PIOT).
“Polish apparel manufacturers—and indirectly textile producers who supply raw materials—are facing severe challenges from platforms like Shein, Temu, and Alibaba,” says Aleksandra Krysiak, director of PIOT. “We estimate that about 30% of low-value parcels end up on the Polish market. We are unable to monitor what is inside these shipments.”
Appeal for Government Action
In mid-July, industry representatives urged the Polish government to intervene against the flood of cheap clothing from Asia. Official data put legal imports of clothing, accessories, and footwear from China at 82 billion PLN in 2023, including 58 billion PLN in apparel alone. The true figure may be much higher, as parcels valued below €150 are unregistered and exempt from customs duties—leaving room for under-declared values. The European Parliament estimates that up to 65% of such shipments may involve undervaluation.
The industry argues that tighter border controls, fair competition, and consumer protection are urgently needed. Proposals include stricter customs checks and stronger labeling requirements.
“We support the same restrictions for all market players in the EU and Poland. The customs exemption for small parcels should be scrapped. Price increases might raise consumer awareness, ensure fair competition, and generate extra revenue for the state budget,” says Krysiak.
She adds that Poland’s market surveillance system must also be strengthened. Industry groups argue that both Polish and European customs checks are too limited and largely random.
“To clamp down on underreported imports, we need full fiscalization at open-air markets, where most transactions are cash-based and opaque. Mandatory fiscal reporting would bring transparency on sales volumes. We also propose mandatory inclusion of the CN code on all invoices, which would help track product categories, import values, and produce clear customs and trade statistics,” Krysiak notes.
Consumer Safety at Risk
The issue extends beyond unfair competition. Industry leaders warn that consumer safety is also at stake.
“These products usually lack labels showing fiber content. We don’t know the manufacturers, where the goods are made, or whether they were produced safely. Tests often reveal fabric compositions that don’t match the descriptions. Moreover, many contain harmful chemicals, posing health risks—especially for children,” Krysiak stresses.
In March 2024, a Consumer Federation report tested apparel, accessories, and footwear bought on Temu and Shein. Over 57% of 29 items contained hazardous heavy metals—chromium, nickel, lead, cobalt, and antimony—above legal limits. Items included clothing and lingerie with artificial stones, chains, buckles, and clasps. Nickel is one of the most common allergens, lead is a well-known neurotoxin harmful to child development, and chromium has proven carcinogenic effects.
“These substances irritate the respiratory system and eyes, cause skin conditions, and some are carcinogenic. This is why the clothing and textile sector is pushing back against unfair competition. These products are poor quality, short-lived, and ultimately end up in Polish landfills or incinerators, with no recycling fees attached. While future EU rules on producer responsibility may address this, it’s unclear how effectively online platforms can be monitored,” adds Krysiak.
EU Policy Response
The challenges posed by e-commerce platforms are reflected in European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen’s 2024–2029 political guidelines. In July, the European Parliament adopted proposals for stricter control of low-value shipments, supported by planned reforms to the EU Customs Code.
